Initial ideas for Dress 1 Design for Dress 1 ( pre discussed and amended ) Working drawings for Dress 1 Order of Work for Dress 1
Initial ideas for dress 2 - Mini cocktail dress 1. organza trapeze dress with flower appliques 2. heavy lace mini dress 3. organza beaded mini dress with collar 4. tasselled mini dress 5. cape back mini dress in silk similar cut to my '1960' dress 6. sequinned trapeze dress with neckline to mirror main dress.
All sketches, order of work and fabric samples will be sent as a physical pack to client and dressmaker too. Consulting between client, dressmaker and Alexandra King to remain open until completion of dress.
Quote for making Dress 1
Fabrics recommended (heavyweight silk crepe or wool crepe) approx £600 Labour approx £1000 - £1500 (to be quoted by dressmaker)
Quote for making Dress 2
Fabrics recommended (sequins, embellished silks) approx £300 Labour approx £800 - £1200 depending on design (to be quoted by dressmaker)
Order of Work for Dress 1
Materials to prepare
7 metres of silk or wool crepe for outer dress, facings cape back 6 metres of organic cotton for interfacing 5 metres lining fabric to match ease of outer fabric – white organic cotton or stretch medium weight satin
2 x matching concealed zips Matching thread Silver or white hooks and eyes Grosgrain ribbon for waist stay Elastic for under bust stay
Measurements To Take (from top)
Neckline Width – point to point of curve
Neckline height from waist centre front
Front corner of neckline to waist
Underarm to waist
Underarm to underarm across back and bust
Bust – fullest
Waist – smallest
Hips -along hip bone
Lower hips – around fullest
Around Knees – with one step taken for movement
Around Ankles – for hem width
Waist to hem length – skirt and cape
Order of Work
If Toile and pattern not included, draw out pattern as per flay lays, design details and measurements. This is one way of making the dress, there may be different methods to reach the final outcome, I have chosen to treat the cape as separate so that final placement can be made and hand stitched in place. This will then allow for removal at a later date if wished by the client. Make up a toile of the dress in calico to check for fit and make any adjustments to the fit or design. Complete the whole dress with internal boning and stays. This is the time to make changes to the neckline, sleeves and any shaping.
Make changes to the pattern and cut the final fabrics.
Cut bodice and skirt - outer fabric and organic cotton interfacing as one and treat as one. Cut lining for bodice and skirt from the same pattern Cut 4 pieces for back cape in outer fabric Cut 4 pieces for sleeves
Cut facings – either as pattern pieces or as 3” wide bias binding.
Sew together outer bodice with interfacing as one – darts should be curved and finish 1” below under bust line
back darts should finish 2” below underarm line.
Press seams open and clip anything away. Sew together the bodice lining and insert boning, waist and bust stays, cups and labels etc Make up sleeves, bag through and press leaving the underarm section to the stitched to underarm of bodice. Stitch lining to the neckline, underarm and back wrong sides together to become one. Stitch on facings and anchor stitch Stitch on sleeves by sewing outer layer to underarm and hand stitching the under underarm to seam. This will catch in the facings too. Make up the skirt – outer layers and lining and sew darts and press Sew skirt waists to the bodice sandwiching the bodice in-between and finishing lining Make up the cape back and bag through and press. Insert cape zip
THIS MAY BE TIME FOR A FITTING BEFORE ZIPS AND HEMS ARE FINISHED
Make any adjustments after fitting
Insert zip into dress and close up lining. Sew facings to back seam and hem
Hand stitch facings in place and put in hooks and eye at top of zip – dress zip placement should be 1” lower than cape zip. Sew cape to the dress strongly by hand at the back and if decided the side seams. The cape can be sewn into the seams of the dress and will require a slightly different order of work.
Finally steam the dress and hang.
Any questions please email or call for a video chat.