A rare early 1960s Christian Dior New York silk velvet moire in Florentine red.
This beautifully tailored coat has an excellent cut around the shoulders and upper bodice creating a slim narrow fit that flares to a classic Dior A-line cut. There is a large lapelled collar (backed in matching velvet) that crosses over to a double breasted fastening, fixed with solid matching red bakelite buttons. The button holes are hand sewn and faced in matching velvet. At the hips the pockets are shaped with flaps and underneath the hidden pocket keeps the line of the skirt. At the back a high half belt finishes the waist and captures a deep pleat that starts between the shoulder blades and flares the the hem of the skirt. Sleeves are simple, cut in two pieces to fall beautifully.
Inside the coat the velvet moire is backed with a cotton buckram inside and then lined in a raspberry silk taffeta. The hem is finished with a silk crepe ribbon.
A beautiful piece designed by Christian Dior and made in New York.
This coat was purchased on an auction site, not advertised as Dior but simply a red velvet coat. Purchased in the US some years ago. I have found a similar coat in brown velvet sold by Dear Golden vintage here https://deargolden.com/products/2-160
Xtabay Vintage sold a Christian Dior New York 1950s piece here
Looking through my many books, the buttons appear correct for the age, Dior Paris also using early plastic bakelite buttons along with covered buttons.
With the help of members of the Vintage Fashion Guild we established that Brooks was a retailer of Christian Dior New York collections in this forum post here. https://forums.vintagefashionguild.org/threads/brooks-christian-dior-new-york-velvet-coat.80957/
Christian Dior himself writes in his biography here on his New York collections.
" That is why I always get so much satisfaction from designing the collection which I do for my New York house. It fulfils the same func ion in my mind as the mid-season collections did before the war.
Proceeding from a theme which is familiar to me and which only recently has completely absorbed my energies, I effect revisions and transformations. Some of the models have to be adapted to the needs of the American wholesalers, that is to say, to the needs of a much larger public. Ordinarily I start by introducing certain simplifications, but if one works in the grip of an inspiration which one has already fully experienced, sooner or later one is bound to look out for new and different elements to incorporate. One gets bored with recopy-ing. That is how a transitional style is gradually effected. The New York collection is far from being a mere reproduction of the Paris col-lection; nearly always several models in it presage the major trend of tomorrow's collection.“ Dior by Dior - the autobiography of Christian Dior
Label: Christian Dior New York Inc sold by Brooks of New Brunswick, New Jersey - Ready to Wear Label
Fabric: silk velvet moire, slight indentations almost like a light devoree effect. Interlined in buckram and lined in silk taffeta
Colour: deep Florentine red with a raspberry red lining
Fastening: bakelite heavy buttons
Age: could be as early as mid 1950s, very similar in cut to the 1955 A-Line meaning it was designed by Christian Dior himself or could be as late as 1962 Designed by Yves Saint Laurent or Marc Bohan with a revisit of the line.
Condition: very good wearable condition, light wear overall. Some very light wear to the velvet on the edge of cuffs but overall in very good condition. One missing original button, it may be possible to obtain an original from Dior. Quite difficult to photograph as the velvet is red and has a beautiful sheen. No marks or damage of note. Dry Cleaned, Steamed and Ready to Wear. As with most vintage items, this dress has been previously worn and is over 50 years old.
Size: Small - Medium - Please check measurements before ordering. Bust: 36" Waist: 28" Hips: free Shoulder to hem: 40” Shoulder Width: 15” Sleeve Length: 22”
This item has been selected for it's design and quality in keeping with the Alexandra King aesthetic. Please note this is a vintage piece and has been pre-worn. Your piece will be carefully packed, boxed and shipped free of charge to your chosen address via insured, tracked delivery.